Confite de Rhubarbe
Rhubarb is one of the first appearances of life in the spring potager after its complete retreat underground in the winter months. Spring to early summer is the peak season for harvest, although in Normandy, we also get a second smaller harvest in the fall. Varieties, growing conditions and even location of the plant, can determine whether yours in a deep dark magenta or almost entirely green. Typical French garden varieties are more often green and at our markets you can see the deeper shades coming from the UK, Germany and Sweden and Nordic countries. There is also an increasingly popular way to ‘force’ the early shoots of rhubarb, which also results in thinner ‘skin’ a slightly more tender stalk, and a more vibrant color and sweetness.
What I love about this recipe is that it honors a generations old practice of slow cooking using the heat from the stove in times when one had to utilize what was available. And even more than that, the finished ‘confite’ is a deeply jewel colored and wonderfully textured treat, that can be used simply on toast, or more decadently in a dessert or pastry. Previously to discovering this method, most of my rhubarb jam endeavors resulted in mushy and stringy (albiet still delicious) results. Even so, that more rustic jam worked as a lovely topping for yogurt or oatmeal, but was less visually appealing for desserts and pastries.
Part 1 - Mise-en-place
The basic ingredients
2 kilos of rhubarb (approx. 4 lbs)
2 kilos of organic sugar (approx. 4 lbs)
Or equal parts of each if you want to make more or less …
Additions:
The zest or peel from one lemon
Whole vanilla bean
Part 2 - Method
Wash and prepare the rhubarb by removing the leaves and ends and chopping into uniform pieces. The size of the pieces can vary, but I tend to do small cube size or smaller if the stalks are big for a more refined finished jam.
Using a copper confiture pan, layer the rhubarb and sugar. Cover and set on the back of the stove and leave for 24 hours. During this time the rhubarb will release juices to begin the process.
Part 3 - Slow Cooking
This part may seem laborious, but it really isn’t. Place the confiture pan on a small burner and begin heating on medium flame or low if using electric coil heat. Warm the rhubarb and sugar slowly, not allowing it to bubble or boil, for around 20 minutes. It’s best not to cover it while simmering as often you might lose track and it could heat up too much. After it has slowly warmed, turn off the heat, cover, and set aside. That’s all for the first day.
The next morning, put the pan back on the small burner and heat for 15 minutes. (Be sure to set a timer so that you don’t forget!) Then turn off the heat, cover, and leave to sit. A few hours later, turn it on again and cook it in the same way. Repeat, every few hours and then let rest again overnight.
On day three you will heat it slightly longer each time and allow it to bubble before turning it off. This part of the recipe is done completely by sight. Once the confiture is bright in color and the syrup is thick, it is done. If canning, please be sure to bring it to a boil before processing.
Note, that if you over-cook, it will still be delicious, but will be cloudier and paler in color. The goal is that the rhubarb still has texture and is ‘candied’ rather than mushy.
If preserving - follow the directions and methods for standard jam making.
Confit is any type of food that is cooked slowly over a long period as a method of preservation. Confit as a cooking term describes when food is cooked in grease, oil or sugar water, at a lower temperature.
This ‘confit’ is perfect for your morning ‘tartine’, so delicious as a topping for Greek yogurt and perfect for summer fruit tarts and dessert pastry.
TIP:
I always add lemon peel (not juice) to add a fresh subtle flavor which adds brightness to the rhubarb’s natural tartness. You can also use a vanilla bean, sliced and added in the first cooking session and then removed, for a special touch.
Even with the deep jewel-colored exterior, most types of rhubarb are still green on the interior of the stalks.
Our farm rhubarb is mainly green except for the ends, but still quite sweet and perfect for both sweet jams and more savory chutneys.
Learn to make dishes like this from recipes in my cookbook, French Kitchen Lessons.
“French Kitchen Lessons in a rhapsody of delicious county living, cooking and dining in a charming corner of Normandy. This is a book to slowly peruse ... keep on your nightstand, set on a coffee table and take into the kitchen.”
Available online or from your favorite bookshop.
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